Spectrum C2C Ombre Blanket – Free Crochet Pattern

Here you find the free crochet pattern for my Spectrum corner-to-corner crochet blanket with an ombre colorway.  Due to the double strand this project works up fast and the final result is a very warm blanket. This project is perfect for stash busting if you have half-balls of yarn left from other projects.

Spectrum C2C blanket 1

Materials

You will need 18 colors of Scheepjes Color Crafter; one ball of every color except for Wolvega for which you need 3 balls. One 100g ball of Color Crafter contains 300 meter of yarn. You can buy this yarn which is available in over 90 colors from Wool Warehouse, Deramores, Paradise Fibers (US/CA) or your local Scheepjes stockist. For the Spectrum blanket you will need the following:

  • Color A: Vlissingen (1723) – 25m
  • Color B: Coevorden (1823) – 50m
  • Color C: Nijmegen (1712) – 90m
  • Color D: Delfzijl (1822) – 125m
  • Color E: Assen (1065) – 165m
  • Color F: Enschede (1824) – 205m
  • Color G: Alphen (1722) – 240m
  • Color H: Dokkum (1302) – 285m
  • Color I: Amstelveen (1277) – 285m
  • Color J: Wolvega (1099) – 675m
  • Color K: Sint Niklaas (2019) – 250m
  • Color L: Zandvoort (1218) – 225m
  • Color M: Hasselt (2010) – 205m
  • Color N: Ermelo (1710) – 180m
  • Color O: Venlo (1080) – 145m
  • Color P: Sittard (1130) – 90m
  • Color Q: Den Bosch (1241) – 50m
  • Color R: Luik (2006) – 30m

You will also need a 6.5mm crochet hook and a needle to work away yarn tails.

Final Measurements

The final size of your blanket will depend on your gauge and personal style of crochet. If you follow my gauge and blocking your blanket will be approximately 135cm x 155cm when finished. This is a comfortable lapghan for use in a comfy couch.

Abbreviations

Please note that US Crochet Terminology is used for this pattern. If you are more familiar with UK terms, please use this conversion chart as needed.

  • ss – slip stitch
  • s – stitch
  • ch – chain
  • dc – double crochet
  • RS – right side
  • WS – wrong side
  • pixel – ch3 and 3dc worked into a ch3-space

Notes

The entire blanket is worked using two strands of yarn at the same time. Sometimes you work with two strands that have the same color, sometimes two strands with a different color. Keep paying attention to changing color at the appropriate points. When changing color you will always change only one of the two strands.

Tip: split each ball of yarn into two equal cakes to make it more easy to use two identical strands at the same time.

This blanket is made using corner-to-corner technique. I have a video tutorial available that is part of my Crochet Fundamentals series to show you the general steps involved in C2C.

Gauge

As such, gauge is not critical for this project. If you want to obtain a blanket similar in size to mine your blanket should to be about 14cm x 14cm after row 6 (unblocked). Change your hook size appropriately if needed.


Instructions

Work the blanket in 4 distinct stages; first start with increasing the diagonal of the blanket, secondly keep the diagonal constant and increase only the length of the blanket, thirdly decrease the diagonal of the blanket to finish the inner part, and lastly make the border.

Increasing the diagonal

In the first part of the pattern increase the diagonal till the width of the main part of the blanket is reached.

Row 1 (RS)

Use two strands of Color A. Ch6 (counts as ch3 and 1dc), 1dc in fourth ch from the hook and in each of the next 2 ch to the end. Turn your work. [1 pixel]

Row 2 (WS)

ch6 (counts as ch3 and 1dc), 1dc in fourth ch from the hook and in each of the next 2 ch to complete a pixel. With the WS of pixel 1 facing and the RS of the pixel of Row 2 just worked facing, line up the top of the dc just worked with the top of the dc’s of from Row 1 so that the 2 pixels are touching. ss in the space created by the ch3 at the top of pixel of Row 1.

ch3, 3dc in ch3-space. Turn your work. [2 pixels]

Row 3 (RS)

ch6 (counts as ch3 and 1dc), 1dc in fourth ch from the hook and in each of the next 2 ch to complete a pixel. Rotate the pixel just worked so that you can ss in the ch3-space at the top of the last block worked from Row 2. ch3, 3dc in same ch3-space as the ss. ss in ch3-space at the top of the next pixel, ch3, 3dc in the same ch3-space as the ss. Turn your work. [3 pixels]

Row 4

ch6 (counts as ch3 and 1dc), 1dc in fourth ch from the hook and in each of the next 2 ch to complete a pixel. Rotate the pixel just worked so that you can ss in the ch3-space at the top of the last block worked from the previous row. * ch3, 3dc in same ch3-space as the ss. ss in ch3-space at the top of the next pixel. * Repeat from * to * until you have worked a ss in the ch3-space of the last block of the previous row. ch3, 3dc in the same ch3-space as the ss. Turn your work. [1 pixels more than the previous row]

Rows 5 – 47

Repeat Row 4 using the following colors for each row:

  • row 1 – 4: 2 strands of Color A (already worked, but given to be complete)
  • row 5 & 6: 1 strand of Color A & 1 strand of Color B
  • row 7 – 10: 2 strands of Color B
  • row 11 & 12: 1 strand of Color B & 1 strand of Color C
  • row 13 – 16: 2 strands of Color C
  • row 17 & 18: 1 strand of Color C & 1 strand of Color D
  • row 19 – 22: 2 strands of Color D
  • row 23 & 24: 1 strand of Color D & 1 strand of Color E
  • row 25 – 28: 2 strands of Color E
  • row 29 & 30: 1 strand of Color E & 1 strand of Color F
  • row 31 – 34: 2 strands of Color F
  • row 35 & 36: 1 strand of Color F & 1 strand of Color G
  • row 37 – 40: 2 strands of Color G
  • row 41 & 42: 1 strand of Color G & 1 strand of Color H
  • row 43 – 46: 2 strands of Color H
  • row 47: 1 strand of Color H & 1 strand of Color I

Constant diagonal

In this part the diagonal is kept constant. This means that the number of pixels per row is the same for each row. At this point you should have 47 pixels on your diagonal.

Row 48

Turn your work. Using 1 strand of Color H & 1 strand of Color I ss into the next stitches and into the ch3-space. * ch3, 3dc in same ch3-space as the ss. ss in ch3-space at the top of the next pixel. * Repeat from * to * until you have worked a ss in the ch3-space of the last block of the previous row. ch3, 3dc in the same ch3-space as the ss. Turn your work. [47 pixels]

Row 49

Using 2 strands of Color I, ch6 (counts as ch3 and 1dc), 1dc in fourth ch from the hook and in each of the next 2 ch to complete a pixel. Rotate the pixel just worked so that you can ss in the ch3-space at the top of the last block worked from the previous row. * ch3, 3dc in same ch3-space as the ss. ss in ch3-space at the top of the next pixel. * Repeat from * to * until you have worked a ss in the ch3-space of the last block of the previous row. Do not work a pixel on top of the last pixel from the previous row. [47 pixels]

Rows 50 – 59

Repeat Rows 48 and 49 using the following colors for each row:

  • row 48: 1 strand of Color H & 1 strand of Color I (already worked, but given to be complete)
  • row 49 – 52: 2 strands of Color I (already worked, but given to be complete)
  • row 53 & 54: 1 strand of Color I & 1 strand of Color J
  • row 55 – 58: 2 strands of Color J
  • row 59: 1 strand of Color C & J strand of Color K

Decreasing the diagonal

In this part of the pattern the diagonal is decreased to form a rectangle.

Row 60

Turn your work. Using 1 strand of Color J & 1 strand of Color K ss into the next stitches and into the ch3-space. * ch3, 3dc in same ch3-space as the ss. ss in ch3-space at the top of the next pixel. * Repeat from * to * until you have worked a ss in the ch3-space of the last block of the previous row. Turn your work without working on top of the last pixel. [1 pixels less than the previous row]

Rows 61 – 105

Repeat Row 60 using the following colors for each row:

  • row 60: 1 strand of Color J & 1 strand of Color K (already worked, but given to be complete)
  • row 61 – 64: 2 strands of Color K
  • row 65 & 66: 1 strand of Color K & 1 strand of Color L
  • row 67 – 70: 2 strands of Color L
  • row 71 & 72: 1 strand of Color L & J strand of Color M
  • row 73 – 76: 2 strands of Color M
  • row 77 & 78: 1 strand of Color M & J strand of Color N
  • row 79 – 82: 2 strands of Color N
  • row 83 & 84: 1 strand of Color N & J strand of Color O
  • row 85 – 88: 2 strands of Color O
  • row 89 & 90: 1 strand of Color O & J strand of Color P
  • row 91 – 94: 2 strands of Color P
  • row 95 & 96: 1 strand of Color P & J strand of Color Q
  • row 97 – 100: 2 strands of Color Q
  • row 101 & 102: 1 strand of Color Q & J strand of Color R
  • row 103 – 105: 2 strands of Color R

Cut off your yarn and bind off.

WIP_C2C_blanket_2

Yarn tails & blocking

Before continuing with the border it is wise to work away all your yarn tails from the center of the blanket. I also suggest blocking your center before doing the border. The C2C stitches tend to pull inward and your border will be very wobbly if you don’t block the blanket first.

The unblocked inner part of your blanket will be about 110cm x 130cm. Block this to 125cm x 145cm. Your blocked blanket will look something like this.

WIP spectrum C2C blanket

Border

Row 1

*(sc, ch2, sc) in the corner of any pixel at the corner of the blanket. ** ch3, skip the next pixel, sc between two pixels. ** Repeat from ** to ** till the last pixel, ch3, skip to the corner pixel. * Repeat from * to * 3 more times. Close with a ss to the first s. ss to corner ch2-space.

Row 2

(ch3, dc, ch2, 2dc) in ch2-space. *skip next sc, 3dc in next ch3-space * Repeat from * to * till the last ch3-space, skip last sc.

*(2dc, ch2, 2dc) in ch2-space. ** skip next sc, 3dc in next ch3-space. ** Repeat from ** to ** till the last ch3-space, skip last sc. * Repeat from * to * 2 more times. Close to ch3 with ss. ss to ch2-space.

Row 3

(ch3, dc, ch2, 2dc) in ch2-space. 1dc in every s till the end.

*(2dc, ch2, 2dc) in ch2-space. 1dc in every s till the end. * Repeat from * to * 2 more times. Close to ch3 with ss. ss to ch2-space.

Row 4 – 6

Repeat row 3. Close row 6 with an invisible join.

border spectrum c2c blanket

Block again to Finish

Weave in all ends and block one more time to approximately 135cm x 155cm. Especially the border will need blocking because it will wobble a bit after completing.


And then you are all done!

spectrum c2c blanket

I love how this blanket worked out. It is my first blanket design, and I am actually very proud of it. I would love to see your blankets. Feel free to share on my Facebook page or tag me into one of your posts on Facebook or Instagram.

With love,

Esther

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(C) Copyright. All rights reserved. This pattern is available for unlimited personal use. You may print a copy of the pattern or keep a digital copy for personal use only. Do not reproduce or sell my patterns (either digitally or in print). Do not post my patterns online, either as a complete document or in part. Please refer to back to this pattern by linking to it from your blog or website. You may sell items that you make with as long as you credit me as the designer. To shop owners and yarn sellers : it is not allowed to make kits without my permission. Please do not print copies to distribute with yarn sales as this is an infringement of copyright. The copyright of this free crochet pattern is protected by Scheepjes.com.

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Coloring with Color Crafter continues….

Many lazy summer days are coming and going; one flowing into the other without any clear distinction. Losing track of which day of the week it is, but that is normal for a summer holiday. I have been making good progress on my Scheepjes Color Crafter blanket I told you about last time. All 18 balls of yarny goodness are flowing into a warm blanket for when it’s not so warm anymore.

scheepjes color crafter

I am playing with color and letting one color flow into the next; just like my days are flowing into one another at the moment. I am going for a natural look, like when a painter mixes colors and they fade and overlap.

It’s summer holiday which means I don’t want a project that requires me to think a lot, just go with the flow and crochet without thinking. Corner-to-Corner crochet is your (and my) friend if you are looking for an easy stitch. And best of all, it works up fast. Just look at how far I am already!

C2C WIP

I am using 18 colors of Color Crafter to make a warm winter blanket. If you are are looking for this yarn which is available in over 90 colors, you can buy Scheepjes Color Crafter from Wool Warehouse, Deramores, Paradise Fibers (US/CA) or your local Scheepjes stockist.

yarn tails

Hmm… still need to work away a lot of yarn tails. Memo to me: don’t leave it till the end. It’s going really fast and I hope to have my blanket done soon. See you next week when I hope to show you my end result.

With love,

Esther

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This post contains affiliate links. Please read my disclosure and copyright policy. All opinions are my own and I only link to products I use or would use.

How to C2C – Corner-to-Corner Crochet

Corner-to-Corner crochet, or C2C for short, is a fun and relaxing technique to work everything from very simple to very intricate designs and graphghans. In my series on Crochet Fundamentals I would like to help you master C2C.

how to c2c corner-to-corner crochet

The basic idea….

The basic idea of C2C is that you start in one corner and work along the diagonal to the other corner; hence the name corner-to-corner. Making squares and rectangles is the easiest, but as such you could also make other shapes by increasing or decreasing the diagonal as needed.

Flow of the method

Below I give you a universal pattern for making a C2C project. The idea is that you start in the bottom-left corner at point O and then work the first pixel. You then turn and come back to work 2 pixels in the opposite direction, turn again and work 3 pixels in the opposite direction again, and so on and so forth. You follow the arrows on the chart working one diagonal after another.

Initially you are increasing your work in two directions, direction A and B. At a certain point A is large enough and then you start decreasing your diagonal in direction D. If you are making a square A = B, which means you decrease the diagonal in both directions, both direction C and D. Otherwise you keep A constant and increase B till B is the correct size, and finally you decease both A and B by working in directions C and D.

Checkerboard C2C

Video help

And after that very mathematical explanation I have you all confused, right? Maybe it is just easier to watch a video in which I show you exactly how to do C2C.

In the video I use a small square design with a two-colored diamond to show you the steps involved in C2C. It is the way I do it, maybe there are others that do the method in a different way, but I have found that this works for me. I show you how to increase and decrease your diagonal as well as how to change color.

C2C design example


General written pattern

If you prefer a written pattern, here I have a general pattern for C2C. This does not specify any color changes nor does it say when to start decreasing. This is to help you see the similarities between any given written C2C instruction and the video.

Abbreviations

Please note that US Crochet Terminology is used for this pattern. If you are more familiar with UK terms, please use this conversion chart as needed.

  • ss – slip stitch
  • s – stitch
  • ch – chain
  • dc – double crochet
  • RS – right side
  • WS – wrong side
  • pixel – ch3 and 3dc worked into a ch3-space

Increasing the diagonal

In the first part of the pattern increase the diagonal till the width of the main part of the blanket is reached, this means the A is the correct length.

Row 1 (RS)

Ch6 (counts as ch3 and 1dc), 1dc in fourth ch from the hook and in each of the next 2 ch to the end. Turn your work. [1 pixel]

Row 2 (WS)

ch6 (counts as ch3 and 1dc), 1dc in fourth ch from the hook and in each of the next 2 ch to complete a pixel. With the WS of pixel 1 facing and the RS of the pixel of Row 2 just worked facing, line up the top of the dc just worked with the top of the dc’s from Row 1 so that the 2 pixels are touching. ss in the space created by the ch3 at the top of the pixel of Row 1. ch3, 3dc in ch3-space. Turn your work. [2 pixels]

Row 3 (RS)

ch6 (counts as ch3 and 1dc), 1dc in fourth ch from the hook and in each of the next 2 ch to complete a pixel. Rotate the pixel just worked so that you can ss in the ch3-space at the top of the last block worked from Row 2. ch3, 3dc in same ch3-space as the ss. ss in ch3-space at the top of the next pixel, ch3, 3dc in the same ch3-space as the ss. Turn your work. [3 pixels]

Row 4

ch6 (counts as ch3 and 1dc), 1dc in fourth ch from the hook and in each of the next 2 ch to complete a pixel. Rotate the pixel just worked so that you can ss in the ch3-space at the top of the last block worked from the previous row. * ch3, 3dc in same ch3-space as the ss. ss in ch3-space at the top of the next pixel. * Repeat from * to * until you have worked a ss in the ch3-space of the last block of the previous row. ch3, 3dc in the same ch3-space as the ss. Turn your work. [1 pixels more than the previous row]

Rows 5 – α

Repeat Row 4 till the correct width of A is obtained.

Constant diagonal

In this part the diagonal is kept constant. This means that the number of pixels per row is the same for each row. Looking at the checkerboard, this means that A is kept constant and B is increased. If you work a square, i.e. A = B, then skip this part and go to the next stage.

Row (α+1)

Turn your work. ss into the next stitches and into the ch3-space. * ch3, 3dc in same ch3-space as the ss. ss in ch3-space at the top of the next pixel. * Repeat from * to * until you have worked a ss in the ch3-space of the last block of the previous row. ch3, 3dc in the same ch3-space as the ss. Turn your work.

Row (α+2)

ch6 (counts as ch3 and 1dc), 1dc in fourth ch from the hook and in each of the next 2 ch to complete a pixel. Rotate the pixel just worked so that you can ss in the ch3-space at the top of the last block worked from the previous row. * ch3, 3dc in same ch3-space as the ss. ss in ch3-space at the top of the next pixel. * Repeat from * to * until you have worked a ss in the ch3-space of the last block of the previous row. Do not work a pixel on top of the last pixel from the previous row.

Rows (α+3) to β

Repeat Rows (α+1) and (α+2) till B is the correct length.

Decreasing the diagonal

In this part of the pattern the diagonal is decreased to form a square, if A = B, or a rectangle. You are now working in both direction C and D.

Row (β+1)

Turn your work. ss into the next stitches and into the ch3-space. * ch3, 3dc in same ch3-space as the ss. ss in ch3-space at the top of the next pixel. * Repeat from * to * until you have worked a ss in the ch3-space of the last block of the previous row. Turn your work without working on top of the last pixel. [1 pixels less than the previous row]

Rows (β+1) … end

Repeat Row (β+1) till you have filled out the square or rectangle.

 


I hope this tutorial has helped you see the logic behind C2C; it a very mathematical and rhythmic method. I first did C2C for Last Dance on the Beach CAL in which I worked stripes by changing color at the end of a diagonal. Seriously, the sky is the limit here. I would love to see what you have made using C2C. Feel free to share on my Facebook page.

 

With love,

Esther

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