Look at that! My argyle color pooling blanket is all done. It was a cold day when I photographed this blanket with my boys skating on a frozen pond, we had SO much fun! The blue colors of the blanket together with the wave pattern and the icy day inspired me to name my blanket “Ice Waves“. In this post all the information, pattern and resources you need to make your own Ice Waves argyle blanket.
- Print this pattern by using the “Print & PDF” button at the bottom of this post.
- Add the free pattern to your Ravelry library
- Written description how to do argyle color pooling (English)
- Written description how to do argyle color pooling (Dutch)
- Video how to do argyle color pooling
- Written pattern in this post
Materials & size
You can easily vary the length of your blanket by using more or less yarn to make a longer or shorter blanket. Here are the amounts I used to make a blanket of 115cm wide and 150cm long.
This pattern uses US crochet terms. If you are more familiar with UK crochet terms, please see this conversion table for the most common terms.
- ch – chain
- dc – double crochet
- fhdc – foundation half double crochet
- ss – slip stitch
- st – stitch
When you make an argyle color pooling blanket using my pattern, please note that this type of project is VERY dependent on tension. Because we all have our own tension and way of working, your blanket will be similar to mine but will not be exactly the same. Your blanket may be wider or longer or the argyle pattern can cross faster or slower. This is the beauty of color pooling, we all make something unique.
“Ice Waves” Argyle Color Pooling Blanket – Free Crochet Pattern
© Esther Dijkstra 2017. All rights reserved.
The pattern purposefully does not give a specific number of stitches, but rather a way of working. This is because color pooling is tension specific. I have a detailed post about (argyle) color pooling, what it is, how it works and what the requirements are for the yarn and how to join a new ball to your work. THE most important thing however is consistency, keep your tension as steady as possible to ensure an even gradient in the argyle pattern.
- Investigate your yarn and find the color sequence.
- Make a slip knot on your hook at the start of a color sequence. Choose a point that is easy to identify, something that is impossible to miss.
- Work a row of foundation hdc stitches using 2 full color sequences. Stop with the foundation stitches when you have the same color yarn on your hook as you started with in step 2.
- ch2 (counts as 1dc), turn and work 1dc in each stitch until you have the same color yarn on your hook as you started with in step 2.
- Undo 1 stitch.
- ch2, turn and and work 1dc in each stitch till you get to the end of the row.
- Repeat step 6. After about 10 rows you will start to see a pattern emerge.
- KEEP YOUR TENSION STEADY!
- Attach new yarn at the correct point
- Continue till your project is the size you want it to be. Then tie off and work away your yarn tails.
- There will be foundation stitches left unworked. Cut the stitches off at about 5cm from your work. Undo the stitches till you get to the start of your fabric. Work away the starting yarn tail you just created.
I also have a video showing how to work my method for argyle color pooling. I hope this video can help to take away any final doubts or questions you may have.
When your blanket is large enough work a border around the blanket as a finishing touch. There are 3 border rounds on the long side of the blanket and 6 on the short side.
- Attach yarn to the top of the blanket where you finished the argyle pattern, * ch2 (counts as 1dc), and work 1dc in every stitch along the short side of the blanket *. Turn and repeat from * two more times to work 3 rows of dc in total.
- Repeat step 1 at the other side of the blanket. This will mean that you will work in the bottom of the fhdc stitches.
- Work ss along the two other edges of the blanket in preparation of the final border rounds. Work 5 ss for every 3dc’s. The process is not an exact science, see this video for more details.
- Attach yarn in any stitch, ch2 (counts as 1dc), and work 1dc in each stitch. When you get to a corner, work 3dc in the corner stitch. Mark the 2nd of the 3 corner stitches. Continue all the way round and close with a ss on the first st. DO NOT turn your work.
- ch2, (counts as 1dc), and * work 1dc in each stitch till the marked stitch, 5dc in the marked stitch, mark 3rd of these 5dc stitches. * Repeat from * on the other 3 edges. Close with a ss on first st.
- Repeat step 5
- Work away all yarn tails.
- You can wash your blanket in the washing machine if you like, the Matterhorn yarn is a sock yarn and easy to maintain.
When you have added the border, the blanket will look something like this.
The photo’s in this post were taken at a local water mill close to my home. It was a cold day in January and I was SO COLD, but it was just magic with my boys.
The ice was thick enough to skate and walk on. I am soooo wobbly on the ice because I don’t trust my balance. My boys held my hand to walk over the ice to take this photo.
It was a magic time with my family. Feel free to share your magic crochet moments on my Facebook page or tag me in one of your post on Instagram. You can also use #itsallinanutshell to help me find it.
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